KCRW's Good Food (Food and Drink)

A new book examines the intersection of American feminism and Jell-O. This Labor Day, throw some desserts on the grill. Nathaniel Rich dives into the consequences of ignoring climate change warnings. Does vertical farming yield the same nutrient content as open air agriculture? Also: Tien Nguyen remembers Jonathan Gold’s impassioned defense of San Gabriel noodle shops, including Nha Trang.

Thai food is having a renaissance. We revisit conversations with James Syhabout of Hawker Fare and Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker, who are showing U.S. diners the wider canon of Thai food. We also hear about Bangkok’s unique food culture. How does the history of Thai food in LA tell the story of Thai assimilation? Plus: hear Jonathan Gold’s original review of Jitlada, the beloved Thai restaurant in Hollywood.

This week the world lost its most highly decorated chef, Joël Robuchon. Chef Ludo Lefebvre recalls lessons he learned at the hands of this master. We also revisit Evan Kleiman and Jonathan Gold’s 2014 visit to Robuchon’s Vegas restaurant. Jean Trinh investigates how some diners in LA can stand waiting two or more hours in line. Finally, we recall Jonathan Gold’s coverage of the influential rap group N.W.A.

There’s a Jonathan Gold-sized hole in the heart of Los Angeles. The Pulitzer-winning LA Times food critic died on July 21, prompting an outpouring of grief and love from around the world. For this special tribute, we gathered the voices of colleagues, friends, chefs, and listeners to celebrate the man who taught us how to eat and live in LA. We dedicate this show to our former colleague of 20 years.

Tradition exists to be honored and improved upon. Venerable classics like grilled cheese sandwiches can only get better, according to chef Eric Greenspan. The food traditions of Italy are well documented, but for Roads & Kingdom’s Matt Goulding and writer Elizabeth Minchilli, there’s always more to learn. A year after opening Vespertine, chef Jordan Kahn wants to keep his diners guessing.

What elevates a dish or market to cult status? Eggslut’s Alvin Cailan is eating through LA’s burger scene to figure out the city’s obsession with the sandwich (and who makes the essential LA burger). In Oakland, loyal customers have sworn by the fresh produce at Berkeley Bowl since 1977. Alon Shaya’s new book breaks down Israeli flavors that influenced him as a chef. And Jon Bonne wants to uncomplicate drinking wine.

Cooking at home doesn’t mean you need a million cookbooks, according to San Francisco Chronicle columnist Jessica Battilana. Nancy Singleton Hachisu is an authority on making Japanese food at home and her new book is her most ambitious yet. Jonathan Gold heads to the westside for Travis Lett’s take on Japanese cuisine. Martha Mendoza investigates fraudulent seafood labels. Plus: shishito peppers at the market.

The death of Anthony Bourdain is a loss felt around the world. His nomadic spirit redefined how many of us ate and traveled. We dug through the Good Food archives for Evan’s past interviews with Bourdain about everything from “Kitchen Confidential” to No Reservations. Plus, a visit to a remarkable memorial in New York. Also, we learn more about Tony’s love of punk rock from his 2010 appearance on KCRW’s Guest DJ Project.

Water may be the essence of life but it’s subject to near-constant misuse. Journalist Mark Arax profiles a couple running a water monopoly in the Central Valley. A once abundant Cambodian lake is in decline, leaving fisherman and half the population scrambling for fish. We’ve heard of using less water but what about eating less water? And Mark Gold (Jonathan’s brother) shares tips on water conservation in LA.

It’s summer cookout season, and Mark Bittman has some essential grilling tips. Third-generation butcher Katie Flannery talks life in the beef business. English chef James Whetlor wants us to consider eating more goat. As Filipinotown gentrifies, the owners of a new bar are trying to reach out to their neighbors. Jonathan Gold talks food-centric cinema. And a peculiar vegetable is popping up at the farmers market.

Fine dining is nice, but sometimes the best bites are those that remind us of home. Nigella Lawson wants to celebrate home cooks in her latest book. Jonah and Amanda Freedman are recreating the bagels of their childhood at their modern Jewish deli, Freedman’s. Beyond the bagels, Jonathan Gold says the rest of the menu at Freedman’s is delicious and nostalgic in ways difficult to explain. Also, peaches at the market.

What’s the best slice of pie in LA? Pie Contest judge Isa Fabro and reporter Abbie Fentress Swanson are on the hunt. Rhubarb is a favorite pie filling, but its sweetness isn’t always easy to coax out. Jonathan Gold reviews Native in Santa Monica. How can composting help Angelenos control their food waste? Gillian Ferguson takes a look at mezcal production. Also, there’s fresh Thai lemon basil at the market.

This week we talk to a few players taking over our Instagram feeds, including the chefs behind Compton’s Trap Kitchen and Chris Stang, CEO of The Infatuation. André and Tenaya Darlington talk mixing drinks and tunes. Pastry chef Clémence Gossett offers tips on baking with kids, and artichokes are what’s hot at the farmer’s market. Plus: Jonathan Gold delivers his long-awaited verdict on David Chang’s Majordomo.

Journalist Andrew Friedman lifts the veil on how kitchen culture has changed since the 1970s. Just in time for KCRW’s Pie Contest, Stella Parks dishes on her bestselling cookbook, BraveTart. Dan Barber’s latest venture focuses on breeding sustainable seeds. Acadian foodways get a long-awaited spotlight. Thinking about getting takeout? Hayato is creating bento boxes that double as works of art.

It’s time to pay tribute to the makers who expand our understanding of food. Whether it’s forging cutlery like Adam Perry Lang, or inventing new forms of “meat,” it’s the restless creatives who keep food culture in constant motion. We also hear about Harper Magazine’s greatest food writing from the past 150 years, as well as an iconic Southern cookbook author. Plus: a look at Mimouna’s food traditions.